Nice to hear you like it! Thanks for the encouragement
The tuning looks as follows:

- chart-red-blue.png (51.63 KiB) Viewed 17671 times
Some properties are immediately apparent:
- A 12 hole instrument spans 3 octaves.
- It's fully chromatic. (ignoring two notes at the very ends)
- The slide alters most notes (7/8) by one half step.
- No slide movements are required for the home key of Bb. In fact, two keys could be played with the slide out. (Similar to Bebop tuning, for instance)
- There are nothing remotely resembling chords. Anywhere. This is a melody instrument! (Tongue splits work though!)
There are many chromatic tunings which are basically a diatonic tuning with added accidentals. There are also some regular tunings, like Diminished and Augmented, where all keys are the same and can be played with a small set of breathing patterns. In a way, my tuning constitutes a compromise between regular tunings and "key-specific tunings" like Solo or Power Chromatic.
I originally started developing what would become the Wedin Chromatic in search for an alternative to key-specific slide diatonics. I wanted something capable of producing complex folk melodies with diatonic ornaments like trills, while allowing for tunes with many accidentals outside the diatonic scale or which otherwise don't conform to the church modes. Examine the chart, and you will find that the slide can often be used for half-step decorations, while full-step decorations can be produced with a jaw flick.
8 of the 12 major pentatonic scales can be played with a stationary slide using 2 breathing patterns (you could try to find them or just trust me for now). 6 of these can be extended, in a fairly regular way, to full diatonic scales which flow nicely without choppy use of the slide. (In fact, 4 of them can be played without moving the slide at all.) I call these the 6 good keys. The remaining 6 non-good keys are a bit more awkward to play, but in my opinion not more so than the hard keys on a Solo tuned chromatic. With my tuning, diatonic trills are available on
every note in the 6 good keys, and their related modes, using the slide or a jaw flick.
The good major keys of my main instrument charted above are Bb, F, C, G, D and A. The latter three are useful for fiddle music, and the first three have relative minors that are.¹ I've chosen to label some notes as sharp and some as flat, according to what function they fill in these keys. For instance, none of the keys contain Db notes, but two of them contain a C#, and thus I name the note accordingly.
In a situation where regularity is what's the most important, of course something like Augmented or Diminished tuning are to prefer. In many ways though, my tuning is sort of regular. This, I think, is best illustrated by the following procedure:
- Choose one of the home keys and let's say you want to climb up the scale.
- Start at any note of your chosen scale.
- If the next note is one full step up, move to the right with the same breath and slide-state.
- If the next note is one half step up, either release the button, change from draw to blow, or change from blow to draw and move one step to the left, depending on how you produce the current note.
- Repeat from step 3.
That's it! As long as you are playing in one of the good keys, the only note where this isn't foolproof is the blow E!² This means you can even start playing along to a tune without knowing which key you are playing, unless you find one of the discontinuities. (If you are playing a slide out blow note and worry you might be on the blow E, you can always push the slide and draw in the same hole. This works even if you turn out to be on the blow D or C!)
There are further regularities. Everywhere but at the blow G, going from blow to draw and moving one step to the right will take you up a fifth. Everywhere but the draw Eb, changing from draw to blow and moving two steps to the right will take you up a fourth (an Eb only shows up in the key of Bb, and that key doesn't have a note one fourth above the Eb anyway!) The patterns for these intervals are familiar from the spiral pattern found in most conventional tunings, and they even show up in some places of Richter
Changes are often additive, i.e. in many places going from a blow to a draw will take you up one minor third, and so on.
Of course there's much more to say, but I think I've covered at least the main selling points

I'd be happy to answer any further questions!
Gerhard62: I have little experience with klezmer music, so I can't give a definitive answer. Melodic minor is likely the flavour of minor that benefits the least from my tuning, in that the one-and-a-half-step interval between the sixth and the seventh isn't as smooth as the half- or full- step between notes in other scales. That said, it's not a bad fit either. Melodic G, D or minor work well, if you don't need to move back and forth a lot between the low sixth and the high seventh. In melodic E minor, the sixth and the seventh are located in the same hole and have the same slide state, and the half step between D# (Eb in the chart) and and E can be smooth even if proper trills would take some practice. Also, I just tried to move around in various Hijaz scales, and it's rather nice. It's easy to get a little spoiled with having ornaments at every note, and forget that even in the non-good scales there's often ornaments at MOST notes
I guess my answer is that it's probably better than many other fully chromatic tunings, at least if you want to play with scale-conforming ornaments in a set of closely related keys. But I also suppose it depends a bit on what properties you need. Having now read the above description, what do you think?
¹) Though I talk about good keys, this is sort of a simplification. Strictly, it would be more accurate to refer to them as "good key signatures")
²) Almost foolproof. Changing from blow to draw and moving one step to the left to go up one half step will also fail at a blow B, so the the assertion assumes releasing the slide to go up one step has priority.